Calling all Riesling lovers: Schloss Lieser Goldstück
Last week, I had the privilege of interviewing Jancis Robinson OBE MW for a New York wines virtual conference and she raised one of her pet subjects: the underappreciation of Riesling. It is indeed a tragedy that the grape is misunderstood by so many, but here’s a wine to woo even the most sceptical.
Like most German wines, Schloss Lieser, Thomas Haag, Goldstück, Riesling Trocken 2018 (around £17 per bottle, once duty and VAT are added at the checkout at Justerini and Brooks – you’ll need to buy a case of six) is a mouthful in more ways than one, but don’t let that put you off because it’s well worth all those vowels. Haag is described as “one of Germany’s brightest up and coming winemakers” and I can well believe it, though there must be plenty of rivals for that title in the modern Mosel.
People sometimes assume Riesling will be sweet, but this has just 5 grammes of residual sugar which is perfectly balanced with racy citrus acidity to create an invigorating sense of nervous energy. Plump grapefruit, apricot, fennel and wet stone minerality all combine to deliver an aromatic, complex wine that’s quite simply delicious.
If this wine weren’t called Riesling, I suspect it would cost another £5, so snap it up, before it becomes fashionable!