My picks from Lidl’s latest
They call them ‘Lidl surprises’ in the marketing guff, but it’s actually no surprise whatsoever to find a decent wine at a remarkable price in Lidl’s sort-of-seasonal ‘Cellar Collection’. Forget the punch-up-inducing Prosecco price promotions that briefly entertain the tabloids, this is where the real value is to be found. And lots of people already know that, which is why the wine bins can resemble a closing down sale if you turn up too late. So I thought it might be an idea to highlight my top picks the day before they hit the shelves (Thursday 28th).
A Lidl love for the French
Lidl always ‘themes’ its Cellar Collection. This summer’s Hungarian selection, which featured some brilliant bargains from an underrated and underexploited wine-producing country, was a roaring success. The German discounter is notching up double-digit growth in wine sales, which must be pulling in customers for the food, Heidi Klum fashions and random chainsaws on offer too. It certainly worked for me; I won’t go anywhere else for my cashew nuts, hand-cooked crisps or kitchen roll. This season’s theme involves a Lidl love for the French.
Where better to start than Alsace, famed for its diverse terroir and elegant fluted bottles. The Hans Michel 2015 Riesling (pictured above) is so good that I can only assume they must have stolen it, to be able to price it at £7.99. There’s the trademark whiff of petrol on the nose, on the palate it’s a rich feast of citrus and green apple, and it retains a delicious freshness. It’s a versatile wine that could even stand up to a Thai green curry.
I’ve long been confused as to why we don’t drink more white Bordeaux? A veteran Master of Wine recently explained to me that, until a decade ago, the quality wasn’t that great, but there have been huge improvements of late. I’m a big fan of the classic Bordeaux combo of majority Sauvignon Blanc with a third Semillon (which outside Australia’s Hunter Valley can be pretty boring on its own). I enjoyed the L’Horizon Cuvée Morgane Bordeaux Blanc, which is very good value at £5.99, with a summer floral perfume on the nose (a little bit late for summer wine, granted) and more richness and complexity than you might expect for six quid. I’d certainly serve this at a party and it would liven up a midweek chicken supper. At the same price, there’s a Gaillac, from the south-west of France, which features some lesser known regional varieties, and has lemon, white pepper and a touch of spice, but perhaps lacks the backbone of acidity that I like. It’s definitely worth a punt though.
Star of the show for me was this Burgundy. Pouily-Loché Henri Larue is pure class and great value at £10.99. The nose is a beguiling lemon grove, with a whiff of something tropical. That all follows through, with ripe melon and kiwi fruit joining the fun. It’s creamy, but not overpoweringly so, with a long finish.
Bestbuy
Turning to the reds, Carignan is an odd one. It’s a variety that, in the wrong hands, can be much too much, thanks to its concentration of tannins and acidity. If you’ve ever had a dodgy Carignan moment, then Val de Salis 2016 should put that right. And even if it doesn’t, it’ll only set you back £5.99. I loved this delicious wine, with its abundance of red and black cherries, Mediterranean herbs and spices, and silky texture. Seriously, I’d pay a tenner for this.
For two pounds more, at £7.99, there’s a choice wine from the Southern Rhone too. Cellier de Montérail 2015 Rasteau (I don’t yet have a picture, but will try to put one up) is full of bramble and black cherry, with a smooth texture and a long finish. It’s another stonking bargain and is highly recommended.
Finally, a pudding wine that slips down much too easily. Columban Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois offers a nose full of forest flowers (I got lilac too) and is silky, but not sickly, sweet, with decent acidity and a real sense of elegance. The bottle’s labelling incorrectly states that it’s 75cl (it’s actually 50cl), but it still offers great value at £5.99. It’s a match made in heaven with the burnt-sugar-cracked-top of a creme brulée.
Is someone else paying?
Lidl’s Cellar Selection is always better than its core wine range. I’m not sure how they manage to price some of these so competitively and it certainly begs the question: is someone else paying? My hunch is no. They are the world’s second biggest retailer, so they have scale. And, having met a few Lidl wine suppliers – who certainly didn’t seem to be in anything resembling an abusive relationship – I’m comfortable that the only thing being screwed is the cork. So check out these new wines and let me know what you think?